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When we are working our endurance with the IntHangs and SubHangs methods we have two possibilities:. In other words, try to make this absolute intensity into a lighter relative load a lower percentage of our maximal strength.
This way the relative intensity is stable while the absolute intensity goes up. The rest of parameters stay the same while the margin would go from 5 to 3 seconds.
The following example shows how this translates into a change in intensity:. Those among you familiar with 3-second margins , which places you in the intermediate level group, can experiment with 2 and 1-second margins in some cycle.
The same three-second margin is harder in a second dead-hang than in a 6-second one. When the margin is too short the expected neural effects can be compromised while metabolic and structural changes are favored, in the form of hypertrophy or enhanced substrate repletion, even if we respect the recovery periods between sessions and mix them correctly with the rest of contents.
This said, there are special cases where we can skip the margin modification altogether and directly alter the dead-hang duration:. One example:. This is the now familiar week planning; we could then switch to:.
But we should not forget that even in endurance methods the rest periods must make it possible to sustain the average intensity that we want throughout the workout.
In this method we have already stated that making the rest interval length shorter is not terribly useful; the opposite is true, though, and we can rest for more than 3 minutes in the following situations:.
When deciding which method to choose for each case you first need to be familiar with the effects of the tools available.
To learn more about intermittent dead-hangs you can visit this blog post and this last one shows why it is better to start with a method were no added weight is used MED hangs if you are new to hangboarding, and when you could start with added weight MAW hangs.
In general, if we seek long-term gains , the way to obtain greater and more sustainable improvements is to periodically change the stimulus by tuning one variable or other.
This is what periodization means. In the short- and mid-term, most of our periodization proposals can be considered as linear. The same goes for IntHangs when we tune the recovery times while keeping the same total effort duration sets x reps x repetition duration.
This kind of periodization is more suited for those who plan to achieve an optimal performance at an specific date or period and is also the most used in sport periodization.
When we zoom out and start looking at the long-term I propose we use a nonlinear pattern , though. There are a variety of schemes and terms, but we can point to two of the best known ones: Undulating daily or weekly and Block periodization.
In a nutshell, they consist of frequent oscillations in intensity, with a periodicity that can go from monthly to daily.
I particularly like block periodization and use it a lot because it fits neatly with the others contents of the mesocycle and my vision of the macrocycle.
A week-long macrocycle is divided into blocks of 4 to 8 microcycles, each one aimed at some aspect of a quality, the idea being for all aspects to come together at the end of the macrocycle.
For example:. Block 2: 8 weeks of IntHangs or SubHangs to work endurance. Block 3: rest from dead-hangs if it is a competition cycle, or weeks of MaxHangs with shorter hang times to recover some maximum strength.
Generally speaking, MaxHangs allow us to gain strength via neural changes, while IntHangs improve our endurance and also have certain effect on strength possibly via hypertrophy.
MaxHangs have shown some influence on endurance as well. However, these effects depend on personal characteristics, and we will explain this now.
My research also gives some pointers regarding the length of each program:. No matter what method we are dealing with, its marginal effect decreases with time, up to the point where we plateau.
This is specially true of MaxHangs with times shorter than 10 seconds. At certain point, though, we have to realize that maintaining certain level can be considered a success ; the body does not have an unlimited ability to adapt.
The information we have provided will allow you to:. Review all the info if necessary. Smaller, occasional differences can in principle be due to normal fatigue and require just adjusting the load.
Revise your planning and do lighter workouts while you figure it out. Rest for weeks after every 4-week MaxHangs cycle or 8 weeks of IntHangs.
If your evolution feels a bit slow remember that the higher your starting level is the slower and smaller the gains will be, and vice versa.
Thank you very much for your motivation, I hope you com back for more as I follow with this series, which will feature IntHangs and SubHangs programs as well as nonlinear periodization examples where MaxHangs, IntHangs and SubHangs will be combined.
These guides are now also available separately from the boards. You can order them now at oriol surfacesforclimbing. Older Posts Home. Subscribe to: Posts Atom.
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